The plates were joined with a rub joint after preparing on a shooting board.

For the purfling I used Roger Hargrave’s two-cutter method and Davide Sora’s thicknessing and gouging recommendations.

This is the belly showing the center joint (follow the end grain to find it)

This notch ensures the even contact goes through more than the surface

After roughing out the outline, I use this paper template made from the poster to guide my corners

The early stages

Roughing out the ouside of back

A purfling platform is created following Davide Sora’s thicknesses

I use a vee board and two cutters to make the outside and inside cuts of the purfling channel

The cutter knives are re-ground to a point, and the guides are rounded

This re-ground file is my purfling picker, notice the small bevel used to guide the picker

The vee board is great for cutting the channel

The purfling is test fitted piece by piece

Marks help make sure the purfling goes in correctly, crucial to good mitres

A loop is to double check the mitres

The view of the mitre through the loop

The purfling pieces are lined up ready for gluing

The purfling after gluing

The installed purfling prior fluting the channel

a view of the fluted channel

A new gouge prior to regrinding the bevel. Notice that the light rounds off the point

A re-ground bevel, nice and flat

The turn-table/cradle is great for working on the fluting over the purfling

Partially blended fluting into the back

Prior to finishing the blending

blending finished (some touch up left)

The mitres came out nice

The back plate ready almost hollowing

The belly almost ready for hollowing

The edging will be done after assembly.